A History of Marrakesh in 6 Beautiful Buildings

What do you think of when you hear the word “Marrakesh?” For many people, this city in southern Morocco conjures images of its wide plaza Jemaa el-Fnaa — a popular gathering spot in the old city with stands for fresh juice or handmade artifacts and even a few snake charmers. Other people picture the winding alleys of the souq, whose wares include leather goods, tourist trinkets, metalwork, jewelry, and more.

But what buildings are part of iconic Marrakesh? And who built them and when? A study of popular buildings can help us understand the complex history of Marrakesh, which has been ruled by a dizzying succession of dynasties, including the Almoravids, the Almohads, the Saadians, and the Alaouites. Here, we’ll use six different buildings to trace that history, a tale that stretches from the 11th century to the present day.

The City Walls and City Gates

Our story begins in the 11th century when the Almoravids, a Muslim Berber dynasty, founded the city of Marrakesh and declared it their new capital. The city grew quickly, becoming a center for trade as well as a religious and cultural hub. In the 12th century, the Almoravids built a wall around the city, repelling several assaults but eventually falling to the Almohad empire in 1147. The new rulers revitalized these ramparts, adding a series of monumental gates to punctuate the thick red walls.

Many of these gates are still in use today, with revisions and renovations by later dynasties. Prominent examples of these historic gates include Bab Agnaou (see below), Bab el-Robb, and Bab Doukkala.

The Koutoubia Mosque

In addition to the city walls, the Almohads designed and built a number of other influential buildings. The Koutoubia Mosque, sitting near the expansive Jemaa el-Fnaa plaza, is a prime example of Almohad architecture.

The mosque’s tall square minaret, over 250 feet high, is a prominent reference point from all corners of the old city. Its brown sandstone is capped by a ring of green and white tile-work, and a spire of gilded copper balls. The mosque’s original wooden minbar, elaborately carved and inscribed with Quranic verses, now rests on display in the El Badi Palace.

The El Badi Palace

In 1269, the city fell to the Marinids, whose capital was in Fez to the north, and Marrakesh’s status and economy declined. The city came to the fore again in the 1500s however, with the rise of the Saadian dynasty. These new rulers reestablished Marrakesh as their capital and undertook a wave of new construction.

The Saadian’s El Badi Palace was particularly regal, using gold leaf, ivory, onyx, and turquoise in its lush decor. The layout featured 100s of rooms, expansive courtyards and irrigated gardens, a style influenced by the Alhambra in Andalusia. When the Alaouites took Marrakesh in 1668, they plundered the palace however, taking these luxurious materials for their own capital Meknes.

If you walk through the ruins today, try to picture this illustrious palace at its height. Wander the sunken gardens and climb the towers to look over the palace and into Marrakesh.

The Saadian Tombs

A short walk westward from the El Badi Palace lies a hidden treasure undiscovered until 1917. A narrow passageway now opens into an expanse of decorated tombs and mausoleums. The Saadian dynasty built this funerary complex as the resting for the royal family and their closest advisors. Sultans Ahmed el-Mansour and his father Mohammed ash-Sheikh both lie here, as do more than 50 princes and princesses. There are graves for more than 100 councilors and their wives as well, including several prominent Jewish advisors.

When the Alaouites took Marrakesh around 1668, they walled off the tombs. Now partially restored, the ornamental carvings and tile-work are exquisite. See below, for example, where a succession of doorways, dripping with carved stone, seem to pull one into the colorfully tiled chambers.

The Bahia Palace

As mentioned above, the Alaouites destroyed the work of their predecessors, hiding the Saadian tombs from view and ransacking the El Badi Palace. But the Alaouites built their own marvels as well, particularly the Bahia Palace in the south-eastern part of the old city.

Constructed over four decades, this project began under Grand Vizier Si Musa, later expanding under the guidance of his son Ba Ahmed. The palace’s maze-like layout includes lavishly decorated rooms, courtyards and walled gardens. Bright colors and geometric designs — the work of many skilled artisans and craftsmen — are visible on the tiled floors, the painted ceilings, and the delicately carved stonework. See the courtyard pictured above or the painted ceiling pictured below. The latter resembles an elaborately woven carpet, not a painting, highlighting the artist’s exquisite work and attention to detail.

The Berber Museum

In the 1950s to 1970s, Marrakesh –and Morocco more broadly– became “a hippie trail” popularized by poets Ginsberg and Kerouac, and musicians like Jimi Hendrix. Other celebrities followed suit: The Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Winston Churchill, and Alfred Hitchcock to name a few. Such visits continue to this day, with stops by Brad Pitt, P. Diddy and others, but few have had long-term effect on the city.

An exception is the influence of French fashion designers Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. In the 1980s, they purchased the Majorelle Garden (Jardin Majorelle), restoring the villa and its botanical gardens. Today these lush gardens are also home to the Berber Museum, both maintained by the Jardin Majorelle Foundation. The villa and garden walls are bathed in a deep blue hue, a color chosen by the original owner, painter Jacques Majorelle. Inside, the museum displays a large array of Berber art and artifacts, collected by Saint Laurent and Bergé.

What Next?

Have you visited Morocco before, or would you like to go? There is so much to see and learn about the history of Marrakesh, its magnificent buildings, and architecture. Let us know what you think of these six different buildings. Which was your favorite and what others would you add to the list?

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